It seemed improper to leave Budapest without visiting any of the city's famous thermal baths so we went to Szchenyi Baths in City Park. Built just at the beginning of the 20th century, it is the largest bathing complex in Eurpope. It lived up to the hype, with thermal pools of different temps and wet, dry and eucalyptus saunas tucked away in elegant, modern halls. We left feeling refreshed and relaxed.
Leaving Budapest was probably our only pleasant riding experience within the city limits. My bell was at its highest point of utility as I used it to part the waves of wandering tourists and puttering cyclists out of our way on the path. Unlike the wandering Hungarians and tourists at Balaton, the people on Budapest bike paths were prompt to make way. Too bad there are only two functional paths like this in the whole city running alongside the river.